A Complete Guide to Understanding Ear Gauge Sizes

 

Body jewelry sizing can seem a little tricky at first glance, but once you understand the gauge system, it becomes much simpler! Whether you're new to body piercings or looking to expand your knowledge, this guide will break down everything you need to know about gauge sizes and how they work.

What Are Gauge Sizes?

When it comes to body jewelry, there are two primary systems of measurement:

  • Gauge (g or ga) – Pronounced to rhyme with "mage" or "sage," this system is more common in the United States.
  • Millimeter (mm) / Millimetre – Widely used internationally and increasingly popular for precise sizing.

The gauge system is unique and a bit counterintuitive, which can be confusing for beginners. Here’s how it works.

How Do Gauge Sizes Work?

Gauge sizes operate on an inverted scale: the smaller the number, the larger the size of the jewelry. For example, a piece of jewelry at 18g is smaller in size than one at 16g.

  • Standard ear piercings are typically done at 20g or 18g.
  • Gauge sizes increase (or decrease, depending on how you view it) in even increments: from 18g to 16g, then 16g to 14g, and so on.
  • When you reach 0g, the next size up is 00g (pronounced "double zero gauge").
  • Beyond 00g, gauge sizes transition to fractional inch measurements (e.g., 7/16", 1/2", etc.).

Example Progression of Sizes:

  • 18g → 16g → 14g → 12g → 10g → 8g → 6g → 4g → 2g → 0g → 00g → 7/16" → 1/2"

At 00g, the jewelry measures approximately 3/8 of an inch in diameter, after which measurements are typically given in inches.

Why Are Gauge Sizes Reversed?

The origins of the gauge system date back to the 1700s and the manufacturing of wire. At the time, wire was made thinner by pulling it through progressively smaller holes. The process worked as follows:

  • A thick wire might pass through only one hole, making it a 1 gauge wire (very thick).
  • A thinner wire would be pulled through ten holes, making it 10 gauge (much thinner).

Thus, the gauge number represented the number of steps the wire went through, leading to the inverted sizing system we use today. This system carried over to body jewelry sizing.

The Challenges of Gauge Sizes

1. Lack of Standardization

While gauges offer a convenient way to measure, they aren’t exact. Jewelry labeled 0g from one brand might be slightly smaller or larger than another 0g from a different manufacturer. Variations in production can lead to inconsistencies, making it harder to match sizes precisely.

2. Uneven Stretching Increments

Stretching your ears (or other piercings) involves moving to progressively larger sizes, but the size difference isn’t consistent:

  • Stretching from 8g to 6g increases the size by just 1 millimeter.
  • Stretching from 2g to 0g, however, involves a jump of 2 millimeters—double the size increment!

This inconsistency means that larger jumps require more time and care during the stretching process to avoid damage.

3. Fractional Measurements

Beyond 00g, measurements shift to fractions of an inch (e.g., 7/16", 1/2"). This transition adds another layer of complexity, especially for those unfamiliar with fractions.

Why Millimeter Measurements Matter

To address these challenges, many piercing enthusiasts prefer using millimeters over gauge sizes. Here’s why:

    • Precision – Millimeters provide exact measurements, eliminating confusion caused by gauge or fractional inch discrepancies. 
    • Universal Standard – Millimeters are internationally recognized, making them a reliable standard for comparing sizes across brands.

Tips for Safe Stretching and Sizing

  1. Go Slowly – Stretching too quickly can lead to painful injuries and permanent scarring. Allow at least 6-8 weeks between size increases.
  2. Use Tapers or Stretching Kits – These tools can help you safely transition between sizes, especially in the smaller gauges.
  3. Hydrate and Moisturize – Keep your skin hydrated with natural oils like jojoba or vitamin E to make stretching easier.
  4. Know Your Jewelry Material – High-quality materials like surgical steel, titanium, or glass are essential for safe and comfortable wear.
  5. Consider In-Between Sizes – For larger stretches, look for sizes like 1g (7mm) to reduce the risk of injury.

Converting Gauge to Millimeters

Here’s a quick reference for common gauge sizes and their millimeter equivalents:

Gauge (g) Millimeters (mm) Inches
20g 0.8 mm ~1/32"
18g 1.0 mm ~5/128"
16g 1.2 mm ~3/64"
14g 1.6 mm ~1/16"
12g 2.0 mm ~5/64"
10g 2.4 mm ~3/32"
8g 3.2 mm ~1/8"
6g 4.0 mm ~5/32"
4g 5.0 mm ~13/64"
2g 6.0 mm ~15/64"
0g 8.0 mm ~5/16"
00g 10.0 mm ~3/8"

Why Choose Jewelry With Dual Sizing?

If you're shopping for body jewelry, look for products that list both gauge sizes and millimeter measurements. This dual labeling ensures you know exactly what you're getting, whether you're stretching or simply purchasing a new piece of jewelry.

Final Thoughts

Gauge sizes may seem confusing at first, but understanding their history and logic makes them much easier to grasp. Whether you prefer gauges, millimeters, or both, the key is to focus on safe practices, accurate measurements, and high-quality jewelry. With these basics, you’re well on your way to mastering body jewelry sizing!

FAQs

  1. What size is a standard piercing? Standard ear piercings are typically 20g or 18g in size. Body piercings such as labrets or septums are usually done at 16g.

  2. What’s the largest gauge size before fractions? 00g is the largest gauge size before transitioning to fractional measurements.

  3. Can I use millimeters for all jewelry? Yes, millimeters are a universal standard and often more precise than gauge sizes.

  4. How long should I wait between stretches? Most experts recommend waiting 6-8 weeks between stretches.

  5. What’s the best material for stretched piercings? Materials like surgical steel, titanium, or glass are ideal for safe and comfortable wear.